Any garage worth their weight will check for causes for you too.. cos may even just be down to something simple of over full of oil.. but obviously could be completely the other way and something major... As Butch says... nothing will be known for sure till the job has been started. I cant comment on pricing as i dont know what its like over your side of the pond.. But any job on most cars that includes dropping the transition can be a timely one unless front wheel drive, then can be shortish some times
srnity: the full extent of your repair cant really be told till the tranny is out and the failed seal is pulled. if the shaft is bad(excessive wear at the seal surface) then the price of poker just went up.
as far as the seal....if they use a quality seal...not just the' best buy' brand...and its installed properly...then there should be no problem.
you should wonder of course...what caused the seal failure to begin with. if thats not addressed...you could be out another 400.00.
To replace a rear main seal on a Dodge Neon (my kid's car) - - - got a quote for $400 (cutting me a break on labor, it's a six hour job) - - - I read somewhere, but can't remember where, that it's better to go with a red rubber seal (?) instead of the manufactured seal to avoid the same slippage problem happening again - - - anybody know if it'll make a difference? Also was told that all they have to do is disconnect (and drop) the trannie from the motor, clean the connections, and replace the seal, so that means that there's no "internal" trannie work needed, correct? And, while I'm at it - - - should I get them to do the "cam seal" while they're at it? If ya know, please let me know, I'm mostly car-stupid
Why is it when I start my car in the morning, my gas gauge shows enough gas to get to work and cheaper gas, and as soon as I head the opposite direction from a gas station, my gauge hovers above empty almost immediately?
Tuesday: lol, the basic rule here is that any strange and or funny noises coming out of your car aren't a good thing. (just curious as to what a dirt dobber is and what the heck they sound like when building a nest)
to my scooby :o) http://sox-main.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5529
Just have to get it remapped now, cos the intercooler is 4 times the size of the original, and the length of pipe getting to and from it ,, so much lag on the turbo boost.. should be good for 330bhp once mapped and around the same lb/ft torque, its 260bhp/ 240lb/ft now before i done this work and 0-60mph 4.7 seconds and 13 sec 0-100mph.. so looks like should be pretty cool for just a 2.0 flat 4 boxer :oD
Bitten the bullet, bought another car for everyday use now, and trailer mine to the track instead of driving,, within next month gonna fit bigger turbo, and front mount intercooler, and remap her.. should get her to best part of 350bhp 330Lb/ft torque :o) not bad for a little 2.0 boxer engine still on standard internals LOL
Stevie: multi-port fuel pressure drops as rpms ncrease, so I could see where you could run into a problem there. its strange the engine manufacturer didnt use a larger injector at the end of the rail to compensate.
tazman7474: yep, Ive altered the air intake, I prefer it slightly rich anyways cos these motors are prone to blowing up with the slight sign of running weak,, as I found out last year. I can parralel up the fuel rails, as they are in series at the moment ( so means the final injector can be slightly starved,, and that just happens to be the usual cylinder that runs lean and fails.
I may look at a larger turbo later this year, and will upgrade the fuel pump again, and do the rails.. and then will fit larger intercooler or go for a front mount.. then I will get it remapped
Stevie: all it does is improve the fuel atomization, which brings it closer to what a fuel injection system would do. with yours being an efi motor, you're better off working on an intercooler and maybe an improved induction system(you've probably done some of that anyways)