LionsLair: I wish profiles would say when the persons membership ran out - but the only way I know of it possible happening is the the round started, he made his move and his membership ran out after he made the move.
Usually when others bring it up - we will continue to watch it and the pawn will time out the next time - but I've seen if a few times before when people bid just above a pawns last bid - but it was a "new" pawn who had time to make a last bid and mess up that strategy.
Vikings: no special testing ability - just some interesting URL hacks and such which Fencer did not put safe guards in.
There use to be other similar bugs awhile back that allowed people to read private fellowships, pawn to get more then their allowed games, allowing tournaments created in other fellowships, plus other things which I helped track down a long time ago for Fencer to put a block on.... but I never spent much time to see what game hacks I could do - since most are obvious when done - except for possible a few new ones they found, which hopefully they sent the details to Fencer so they can block those.
My personal opinion - for the first few rounds, to possible save 10-20 points - there is no point in bidding too low. That is if I think the low bids will be between 70-80, I will bid probable closer to 100. Again, 10-20 points in my opinion is not that important. Much more important to be around at the end. (That is in later rounds, there will be bids with over 1,000 between them - so what is 10-20 points? not much)
For new users, some general tips (everyone plays different so feel free to follow or ignore):
Check recent ponds - see what bids fell in the first few rounds - make sure you are higher then that.
Keep an eye out for players whose membership drops to pawn status. After they chance to a pawn, they can no longer bid - so their last bid will continue until they fall.
Keep an eye out for the lowest player. If they only have 1 point left, it is funny to still see people bid 1,000+, since they would just need to bid 2 to stay in.
The 500 point bonus can be good - BUT if you have to bid more then 500 points higher then what you normally bid - they it is not really very good. (Except for the times when your goal is to keep others from getting it.)
BadBoy7: The higher you end up, the most ratings you will win. So if someone signs up, and then falls in by either not playing or something, the higher you end up and the better you do. Sometimes there is a tie and there is no winner - happens a lot with Rain Ponds, but rarely in the others.
BerniceC: One of the extra benifits to Knights are more games. Extra benifits to rooks are yet more games & ability to start fellowship, tournaments, ponds, etc.....
But an easy way around it is if you really want a tournament or pond started, just ask a current rook to set it up for you. They can easly add the line "This pond is set up for BerniceC" or something like that.
Modified by coan.net (26. November 2005, 01:00:30)
I have created 3 new "elite" tournaments. Around the top 40 players are allowed to play.
Ponds removed. Some were offended that I was trying to offer special and different ponds then all the rest, so instead of worry about it - I just removed them. Thank you for you interest.
Before the ponds start, I will go through and remove players who do not belong. I will also remove any players that are known to play as teams since this is unfair to everyone else. Please feel free to PM me privatly if you see someone who fits in that I may not know about.
Vikings: I'm going to try to keep active ponds - probable nothing under 4 day moves since there is still a good chance that I will take some time away from the computer upcomming... plus not going to get the 50+ ponds at a time like I did before.
I agree that if you could make ponds for fellowships, or limits that are enforced - and maybe a "blacklist" of known cheaters & unwanted players would be nice ----- But to show who is signed up is a simple solution. (Since again it is not really hidden - I can search through a lot of profiles and find basicly all who are signed up for a dark pond now.... if I wanted to waste the time to do it.... so it is not really hidden now, just not convenent.
Right now, dark ponds are set up so you do not easly see who signs up.... BUT that is not really true because if a person has the time, you can easly look in a persons profile and see if they are playing in a dark pond or not.
What I would like to propose to Fencer is that for dark ponds that we can see who is signing up. (But of course once the dark pond starts, players names and such are hidden to keep it as a dark pond.)
people who want to set up ponds with certain BKR limits will be able to kick out players who do not meet it.
people who want to set up ponds for certain fellowship members will be able to kick out players who are not members.
people can kick out known cheaters (or for those who do not consider it cheating - people who play unfairly)
people can avoid playing in dark ponds with people they do not like
I can not really think of once - SINCE right now you can find out who is playing in a dark pond by searching players profiles to see if they are in the pond.
= = = = =
So what do others think? Do you think we should see who is signing up? If not, reasons why not?
Czuch Chuckers: Actually I did not play since I was (and still will) be taking some real vacations, and ponds don't have vacations - so I stoped signing up for new ponds. (I'm still playing 3 with longer time limits - and I will probable sign up for a couple more once those are over so I will never be without ponds - but I'm going to try hard to not have 50+ ponds going at the same time like I have in the past.... plus with ponds that probable have at least 3-4 days per turn.) I don't mind losing, but I hate to lose on a time-out.
Pbarb2: Yea, like Czuch said - if you know you are going to be gone for a few turns in a pond, you can bid a higher amount of points (which will be auto-bid for you any rounds that you don't enter anything for) - which may keep you in the ponds until you get back - but the down side is you lose a lot of points so. (So if you think a good bid for the current round will be 100, but the next round after that may be 200 but you will not be around - you can bid 250-300 that way you hope your auto-bids will keep you in the game for a little bit.)
Just looked at my most recent Dark Pond - First bid to fall was 39, with a couple of 43's right behind that. Yea, 50's would be my bet - maybe even the high 50's now that I think about it more - would rather play safe - and 10-20-30 points extra you bid now will make almost no difference in the game at a later point.
1) Well I have noticed that the opening bid has slowly been growing as time goes on. For a 16-25 player pond, an opening bid in the 40's is usually OK. With more players, you *MAY* be able to go a little lower - but with the first few bids - 10-20-50 points is NOT going to make a diffrence in the game - so I normally don't take the chance.
You can also take a look at past bids in current ponds - so take a look at a few - study the first few moves by players. That will also help.
2) The beter you do, the higher your BKR! (Other then that, I'm not sure - it's supposable similar to how the regular game BKR's are calculated, but not sure how.)
3) When a player becomes a pawn, they can no longer move - so their last move will become they move for all the next rounds. So if you are watching, you will know you can bid 1 point above the pawn's auto-move and still stay in the game
Vikings: Yea, i think I will start to mix-up the times on my ponds between 1-3 days. I use to make them all 1 day ponds since that is what I like, but since I'm not signing up for any new ponds - I guess it does not matter what I like.
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